This article appeared on iafrica.com’s travel pages

September 2003

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Across Japan, millions and millions of people are soon going to be very bored. Unfortunately for them, after about seven months of almost nightly games, baseball season is winding down. The Osaka-based Hanshin Tigers recently clinched the competitive Central League title or “pennant” - their first title in 20 years - prompting widespread celebrations. Following tradition, drunken hordes jumped into the river that flows through the heart of Osaka and made a noise so loud it was said you could hear it 50 kilometres away. Less dramatically, Daiei (actually the name of a department store - all the teams are known by the names of their sponsors) have almost cleaned up the Eastern league pennant.

But the circus ain’t leaving town yet. Or ever in fact. Baseball is a national obsession to the Japanese; or perhaps it would be more accurate to call it a national obligation. 99% of people, asked if they like baseball, will raise their eyebrows at your ridiculous question and reply “Of course”, in the same away that a South African might say “Of course I like Castle lager.” The other 1% are very sheepish about their dislike, but will admit this unpatriotic failing if pushed for an answer. Baseball is big business too: there is so much advertising money invested into the game that the TV networks would never allow it to be unpopular!

The sports news is almost entirely dedicated to baseball score round-ups, daily highlights and post-match interviews. In August each year, there is an annual high school baseball tournament that is avidly followed, and gets prime-time coverage. The keen youngsters are seen to embody all that is pure and good about the sport - and of course they have the chance to sign up for a professional career, if they can handle the intense pressure.
There are also nightly segments keeping fans up to date with the exploits of Japanese players who have “cracked the big time” in the American Major Leagues, the most famous being Ichiro Suzuki of the Seattle Mariners and Matsui Hideki of the New York Yankees. Some would say that baseball’s dominance in Japan reflects the unhealthy influence that America and American popular culture have had in Japan since the post-World War II occupation. Certainly, the Majors are still looked up to as the bigger, better older brothers of their Japanese equivalents. Others, however, would say it’s a prime example of the Japanese capacity to take something from another country and turn it into a uniquely Japanese product. American expats in Japan go out of their way to point out that baseball here is completely different to the kind you might see in, say, Yankee Stadium.

For one thing, the fans are more diligently enthusiastic. Travelling across the country to away games, dressed in team uniforms and colours, they chant songs accompanied by brass bands and, invariably, plastic skittles that they knock together to beat out elaborate rhythms. (The noise can be deafening; but then 21st century Japan, impeccably capitalist and full of competing advertisements, is an extremely noisy place.) Most supporters’ clubs have their own trademark: opening and closing transparent umbrellas, or releasing balloons into the air with each home run. The stadia are equally impressive - because the summer weather in Japan involves a lot of rain, many teams now play their home games in purpose-built “Domes” enclosed by enormous roofs and sporting bright green artificial turf.
As for the action on the field, well, it’s pretty simple to understand (even for first-timers) and not always as exciting. In fact, for those who enjoy the infinitely more complex and interesting game of cricket, it can be boring. Those who think cricket is boring, on the other hand, should sit through an 18-innings game in which not one run is scored. But baseball, Japanese-style, is an unforgettable experience!

Second in line to baseball is, of course, soccer. Japan hit the big time on the world football stage when it joint-hosted the World Cup last year, but unfortunately this didn’t give the national J-league the boost that soccer bosses were hoping for. If anything, the array of stars on display merely increased everyone’s interest in the European leagues: Serie A in Italy, la Liga Espanola in Spain, and the Premiership in England. Smiling sweetly and endorsing products ranging from watches to beer, the sport’s glamour boys (including, of course, Japanese players in other countries) are hero-worshipped by people who aren’t even remotely interested in “sa-ka”.

Anyone who thinks they have experienced the David Beckham Phenomenon should think again if they haven’t visited Japan. The young and affluent, pre-occupied with brand name fashion and pop music, idolise Victoria too; but there’s no doubting which half of Posh’n’Becks is the favourite. It almost comes as a pleasant surprise when young David’s sporting performance is analysed. But then, with a 20 minute slot on the weekend sports roundup called “Beckham’s weekend”, the time has to be filled somehow.

So what about the more traditional sports? To many people, the words “Japanese sport” bring to mind images of big fat men in uncomfortable loincloths pushing each other around a small ring ... yup, the ancient art of Sumo Wrestling. Unfortunately, sumo is one of those traditional Japanese past-times that is on the decline in modern Japan. It has also become less popular as a competitive spectator sport since the recent retirement of the most famous yokozuna, or grand champion. This seems a pity: the sport is undeniably unique, both as a demonstration of strength and skill and as an art form. The rules are simple - you lose if any part of your body other than your feet touches the ground, or if you are forced out of the ring. Charging like bulls; clashing like thunder and lightning; slapping each other to get a good grip; dancing lightly on their toes; these titans might look flabby but they also show remarkable balance and control.

There are only six big tournaments across the country each year, lasting for about 10 days each, but if you get the chance then a day out at the sumo is a must. The wrestling starts at about 11:00am, with the rookies and small-fry (a relative term of course) battling it out in front of a few hardcore supporters. As the day goes on, the wrestlers get bigger, as does the crowd, and when the big names appear around 5:00pm there is a buzz of excitement. Bouts usually only last for a few seconds, but are preceded by lengthy and elaborate rituals. These symbolic acts (stomping the feet, throwing salt into the ring) evolved out of sumo’s ancient links with Shintoism. They can get a bit repetitive, however, so the day is best broken up by frequent trips to the souvenir- and refreshment-stalls! There’s nothing like eating a perfectly prepared bento (lunch box) to pass the time between matches.

Sumo is a distant cousin to other martial arts, which are certainly practised as widely in Japan as in other East Asian countries. “Western” children of the 80’s and 90’s, however, having grown up with Daniel-san and Mr Miyagi, might be disappointed to learn that not everyone in Japan is a black-belt in Karate or Judo. Having said that, in many high schools it’s compulsory for students to learn one of the martial arts. Most elect for the wooden-sword combat of Kendo, although the high cost of the equipment acts as a deterrent when they leave school and have to pay for themselves!

As for competing in other sports on the world stage, it hardly needs to be pointed out that the perception of Japanese athletes only being successful in disciplines such as badminton and table-tennis is way out of date. From tennis to the marathon, swimming to ice-skating, Japan has produced some real achievers. What’s interesting is the attitude of most Japanese people to these heroes. When an athlete is successful, their performance is often portrayed as a victory for the underdog. Many stereotypes are still cultivated in Japan; foremost among them is the big, brash, klutzy gaijin (foreigner) as opposed to the short, sharp, sensitive Japanese person. Brawn vs brain, strength vs skill, power vs perseverance - it’s David knocking down Goliath, or Jack outsmarting the Giant, or the Tortoise overtaking the Hare. So maybe Daniel-san wasn’t so far off the mark after all.