It is said that, when the British claimed possession of the islands (after another protracted squabble) way back in 1833, they wanted primarily to establish a strategic naval position. It is also said that the Argentinian invasion 150 years later was an attempt by the unpopular military junta in power at the time to stir up nationalist feelings and distract citizens from the corruption and oppression emanating from Buenos Aires. 

But a few weeks ago, I overheard a conversation – between two British tourists eating at a restaurant in Johannesburg – in which an altogether different explanation was offered. “Meat!” affirmed the husband to his wife, as he tucked into a T-bone. “You just don’t get beef like this in the UK ... That’s it! That’s why we went to war over the Falklands, which is basically just farmland for cows and sheep.” 

Intrigued, I stopped chewing my lamb shank and listened further: “The Argentinians love their meat, you see; they love producing it and eating it. So they see a kind of cultural and economic affinity with the Falklands, even though the islanders are as British as can be. We, on the other hand, also love meat – but we have to import it. Mad cow disease, foot-and-mouth and all that. Do you know how much meat is exported from South America?” 

Although I couldn’t quite follow his logic (and I subsequently discovered that the United Kingdom is actually a net exporter of meat), I had to admit that he made a few interesting points. While the most rapidly growing food industry in the Falklands over the last twenty years has been fishing, the islands’ farmers are best known for their beef and lamb. Argentina is likewise renowned and, moreover, the South American country is also the world’s largest consumer of red meat. 

When Argentine footballing star Lionel Messi was asked during the 2010 FIFA World Cup what he most likes to eat, he spoke for most of his compatriots when he replied: “Steak.” The response was, of course, enthusiastically received by the tournament’s host nation. Rump, sirloin or fillet; ribs, mince or stew; boerewors, bredie or potjie; there’s no doubt that the people of South Africa love their meat as much as the British and Argentine populations put together. 

It was only appropriate, then, that the restaurant in which I was introduced to the new history of the Falklands War is a distinctly South African paradise for carnivores: The Meat Company. This restaurant franchise is also rapidly becoming an export success-story in its own right. 
The Meat & Wine Co. was founded by Costa Tomazos and Bradley Michael in 2000, when the first restaurant opened its doors at Montecasino in northern Johannesburg. Since then, the brand has grown exponentially: after establishing two further branches in Jo’burg (Melrose Arch and Clearwater), Tomazos and Michael decided to take The Meat Co. overseas. There are currently operations in the Middle East (Israel, Dubai, Abu Dhabi, Bahrain and Kuwait), Australia (Sydney and Melbourne) and, of course, in the global culinary capital city of London. 

As Training and Resources Manager Vanessa Charles explains, this expansion has provided opportunities for young South Africans to work and travel abroad. Kitchen, bar and waiting staff have been flown across to give restaurant patrons not only a taste of South African flavours but also the chance to interact with the country’s people: “Our international clients love the food but our best feedback is always about the staff and how much they add to the overall dining experience.”
It’s no different at the original South African stores, where top quality cuisine is matched by an extensive wine list, a jovial ambience and smart service. Along with the wet-aged red meats, there are seafood, chicken and pork specialities – and, indeed, the odd vegetarian-friendly dish too. 

There is much debate around the ethics of meat consumption, and omnivore humans face perennial questions: should we eat meat at all, given our connection to other animals? Can we afford to eat as much meat as we do, given the ecological consequences of livestock farming? Meat eating patterns have changed over time and will continue to do so as economic and environmental factors change. 

Even eating habits in Argentina fluctuate. Former president Nestor Kirchner caused a public outcry a few years ago when he asked his compatriots to eat less beef as an inflation-curbing measure, but what he wasn’t able to achieve then has inadvertently been brought about more recently under the tenure of his wife and successor, Cristina Fernandez de Kirchner; the global economic recession has dulled the Argentine appetite for costly meat dishes. 

Here in South Africa, we are not immune to worldwide financial trends and many foodies have had to dig deep into their pockets to indulge their fine dining passions. For those who can, however, a visit to The Meat Company should be on the list.