There is no such thing as irony in Gatlinburg, Tennessee. This pleasantly-situated town, on the northern edge of the Smoky Mountain National Park, is more or less the American equivalent of a quaint Swiss alpine village: it has the flowerpot-lined roads, the heavy wooden architecture, even the cable-car rides up steep slopes covered in pine trees.
But they don’t do “quaint” in Tennessee. They do tattoos and motorbikes, long beards and cowboy boots, Hard Rock Cafe and souvenir shopping, neon lights and “family amusement” courtesy of Ripley Entertainment Inc. In short, they do bold and brash – unselfconsciously and unashamedly “Southern”.